Growing Hops
By
Growing Hops on the Bine
Growing hops is possible in almost every one of the United States of America. Hops obviously exist in Europe, Asia and other locations but I will stick with what I am familiar with, the USA. To grow hops you generally must be between the 35th and 55th parallel (see diagram below) elevation may make it possible to grow hops at slightly lower lattitudes. Some varieties of hops do better than others in the extremes of this range (some like it hot, some not). Currently, the northwest USA produces the largest crop of hops plants (Oregon, Washington Northern California…).
USA Latitude Map
Hops (Humulus Lupulus) are a fast growing vine (referred to as bine) that requires large amounts of sunshine and nutrients from the soil to sustain their rapid growth. Hop bines can grow up to 30 ft in length. A perennial, which dies back every winter to the root stock also known as the crown. Hop plants can be grown from hop rhizomes (underground stems) or seed (but usually hops rhizomes – only want female hop rhizomes). Hop plantings are generally grown vertically but can be grown horizontally. Most Hops plants require a 4 month growing season.
Only the female hop plants flower (the flower is the hop). Males are used for pollination to seed the females but generally un-pollinated or seedless hops are preferred for brewing. Beer hops are used for brewing beers and ales to counteract the sweetness of the barley, to provide aroma and also works as a preservative. Hops have medicinal qualities and calming effects but that is out of scope for this blog.
Planting hops requires a nutrient dense, well drained soil with a PH between 6 and 8. Most hop growers go vertical with their plants so that must taken into consideration for planting. Since most people (at least in the cities) have a 1/4 acre or less, use a side of their house, garage, deck or tall poles and twine or rope. Running twine from the ground to a roof line or overhang is very popular. A common configuration is twine from a ground anchor to an eyelet attached high on a pole, house, garage or other building and zigzagged up and down (using a latch hook on the high end for easy removal). If using a single pole, it would be a tee pee configuration. There are many ways to rig the vines but rope seems to work the best compared to trellises when it comes to harvest time.
Soil should be prepared at least a couple weeks (the previous season is better) before planting to allow the soil amendments to blend together. Soil should be dug down a foot or more to ensure the root stock can grow unimpeded. The soil should be mixed with organic materials (I am an organic kind of guy). Decomposed manure, compost, leaves and/or grass clippings and wood ashes are all good soil amendments for hop gardens. Drainage is very important for hop plants so be aware of slopes and valleys in the ground. If planting against a house or garage without gutters (on the down slope side) beware the roof runoff. A raised mound and drainage paths help in these cases and is a good idea for all hop planting.
Most hops are propagated from rhizomes, so that is what I will cover (besides I have never started from seed). If you have a short growing season, you can start hop rhizomes indoors. Once the threat of frost has passed, it is time to plant. Plant 1 to 3 hop rhizomes in a grouping or mound (1 is usually sufficient), 1 to 4 inches below the soil’s surface (I go 3 to 4 inches deep). Plant buds up and mounds about 3 feet apart, more (minimum 5 feet) if the next grouping is a different variety of hops.
When the shoots break ground and are about 1 foot long, select 1 to 3 of the hardiest hop bines (similar to, but different from vines) and train them to climb the rope in the same direction – most advise clockwise (not sure why). Like everything, there are different ways to go about this, either 1 pole or rope per mound or 1 on each side of the mound (2 ropes/twine) per mound – prune all other bines to focus all the growing energy to the selected bines. Difference between bines and vines: vines send out grasping shoots. Bines use stiff hairlike follicles and wrapping around things to support themselves.
Depending on when you started or when the existing crowns started bines, the hops should be ready for harvest around mid August to mid September. When mature, the hops will be squeezable rather than solid and have a paper like texture. When you determine it is harvesting time, bring down the ropes or poles and pluck the hops from the vines. The hops must be dried, either in a dehydrator, an oven no more than 140 degrees (with the door open) or at room temp spread out on a single layer on a raised screen to allow airflow. Keep away from direct sunlight as that will affect the properties and freshness of the hop cones. Room temp drying is best for retaining flavor and aroma.
Once dried, the hops should be vacuum sealed and frozen for best results or fresh hops may be used immediately (after drying the hops). If not vacuum sealed, at least remove as much air as you can from a sealable freezer bag and then freeze. Shield the hops from light as that will prolong freshness also.
This is a bit abbreviated but gives you enough information to grow your own hops! Read some books on how to grow your own hops and/or do some more Internet research to gain additional tips, tricks, methods and theories to maximize your hop growing abilities. Just say no to hop drought and start growing hops.
See: Growing Hops From Rhizomes
Very nice summary of the essential information for growing hops. I will add that if anyone plans to plant hops for the first time next spring, then NOW is actually a better time to begin preparing the soil, although just a few weeks before will be sufficient. Some things — lime in particular — take many months to sweeten the soil.
I hope you don’t mind, but I’ve taken the liberty of adding a link to your blog on the links page of Grow-Hops.
Also, if you are not already a member, I cordinally invite you and all other hop growers to join us — over 2,400 members — see my URL.
We’ve been hard to find because search engines don’t list us very well.
Cheers, and I look forward to further additions to your blog.
Bill Velek
I agree with Mr. Velek on the fact that this is a very informative article on growing your own hops. I live in northern California in an area where temperatures can get up to the 110′s in the summer. And i have to say, i was somewhat successful in growing my hops. Here were some of my mistakes that i plan to correct and hope other readers do NOT do when growing their hops:
1. I only bought one rhizome. Although this allowed me to focus only on it, it limited my options and didn’t allow me to expand my methods of growing. I plan to fix this by buying three rhizomes and planting them next spring.
2. I did not water them on a regular schedule. Living in a place where it is extremely hot during the summer, I felt i could water them every day or so. This was not the case. I would hand water my hops, and although this worked, they grew very slowly. I eventually got them hooked up to a hydration drip system, but I had to manually turn on and off the system because I did not have a timer, and my hops still grew slowly. I plan to fix this by Setting them up on a drip system, investing in a timer, and setting a regular schedule starting when I first dig my new holes.
3. My last and final mistake: I did not tell my neighbors. I planted the hops along the chain link fence so that they would have good support to climb on. however, I forgot to tell my neighbors who put the fence up. So, when my neighbors were doing some landscaping, and were spraying the vinca along the fence to kill it, they must have thought my hops were weeds too and sprayed them as well. I plan to correct this by planting my new hops in a raised bed that is not only away from the fence line, but also conveniently right outside my bedroom window so I can view them when i wake up.
I share this experience with the world not for pity, but for all those who wish to do something cool with their life and choose to grow hops may not make the same mistakes I did. You can follow the journey of my hops on my URL, and can also use the links there to buy he hops from the supplier that i did.
Hope everyone has a great day and a great experience with growing hops,
–Charlie Bierwirth
I think I know why it’s best to wrap the vines clockwise around the ropes. They’ll follow the sun’s movement from East to West that way.
[...] Lupulus – in July (7/20/2009) status report. It has been a couple of weeks since my last growing hops post. All three hop plants have topped their ropes. The Magnum hops finally made it to the top [...]
[...] may be willing to part with some rhizomes. Barter a couple of homebrews to your friends that are growing hops for some hop [...]
I mailed a hops plant to my parents in Kansas. Wondering how it will do in that climate. They have a ground level patio open to the south and west that gets lots of sun. I envision it climing up to top then trailing around the perimeter and around the patio providing shade. Is this feasible?
PS
Have not told them what kind of plant it is or given any growing instructions at this time, just mailed it overnite yesterday.
Michael,
I would think it would do ok in Kansas. Make sure they water it daily, at least the first year. Have them mulch around it also to help the soil retain the water. Will they be planting in the ground or large container? Is their patio covered with a pergola or arbor? As long as they have something to climb, have them use twine if the bines don’t climb the lattice or whatever is in place. It should provide some good cover.
[...] Gardening to brew Hops can be grown in almost every state according to this article: Growing Hops | Growing Hops Yourself The article has a lot of information that is good for anyone just starting to grow [...]
grew some hops the last few years in sacramento. i have found that my hops didnt really get producing until their 2nd season. maybe just my lack of care… do have other things going on. once est… daily watering was all she took. had original root in plastic pot. after the first year of major hop-age… the wife had me move my plant. when i tried to move it last spring there was a couple of arm sized roots that had blasted through the bottom. as summer progressed i now had two locations growing well. summer 2011 ill be jumping with hops. and ill be taking better care of them after the info read here. thanks.
I have had several people asking about growing hops in your area (Sacramento, Ca) but I had not heard of anyone doing it. I was pretty sure they would grow there, now we know. First year you may or may not have hop cones – 2nd year and on, look out. Yeah, they will find the drainage holes in the pot and seek the ground. They have massive root stocks (as you found out).
Thanks again for sharing the So-Cal experience.
Cheers to 2011!
I brew mine in a bucket hanging from a tree worked well
I have purchased my first this spring from Seattle, I live in Florida. one of my magnums was damaged in shipping and it died the other four are doing well. i have placed them in containers, the nugget bine has hit the top of the rope already, at 16′. The magnum plants are a little slower and one has toped out with a bud. All seem to be hearty, though i’m a little concerned about the leaves they have a light yellow spottyness, and a couple of evening bugs decided they like them . I have sprayed them with a slight dillution of soapy water for the bugs but i don’t like the spots. some of the leaves of the nugget have turned down but are solid green. i planted in compost top soil and peat mixed well. what if any can anyone tell me of container planting? I’m in central fl. i came here to find the soil ph , did. any other pointers would be helpfull. I am groing for herbal reasons. Thanks
Daniele,
Congrats on growing hops – whether for beer or herbal remedies, sleep pillows, tea, covering a pergola, trellis, arbor or privacy wall. Yes there are many uses for hops. Diagnosing hop conditions can be tricky. I will provide a couple of resources for you. Hops will grow in 5.5 to 8.0 soil ph. From the majority of what I have read, 6.5ph seems to be the best all around ph for hops.
Essentially, the following are the main culprits:
- Insects – aphids, spider mites…
- deficiencies – minerals, trace minerals, NPK – macronutrients / micronutrients…
- fungus – powdery mildew, downy mildew…
- bacterial
- viral – hop mosaic, apple mosaic, hop stunt viroid…
- black root rot – rhizome/root stock too wet – soil not draining sufficiently
- herbacide drift (from weed killers – sometimes from neighbors…)
http://www.freshops.com/hop-growing/hop-diseases-and-pests – click sidebar “Hop Diseases and Pests” make your selection and at the top of the page are some additional links.
http://www.usahops.org/userfiles/file/Research%20Reports%20&%20Presentations/HopHandbook2009.pdf
This link is pretty thorough in identifying the problem. Page 79 starts the deficiencies.
My Magnum hops are suffering from what appears to be a boron deficiency – crumpled, mishapened leaves and shoot tips. I found a spray that contains a small amount of boron – it is Bonide Liquid Iron + micronutrients. It contains magnesium, boron, copper, iron, manganese, zinc – addresses many possible mineral deficiencies. I sprayed all my hops from tip to ground and the deformed leaves came back a little, but the new side shoots (laterals) appear to have normal leaves! I won’t know for sure if it will save my Magnum hops or not, but I had to try something. I just bought some organic kelp feed which contains just about every mineral – I am going to add this to the soil also. That should cover any deficiency.
I have pictures and am going to write a post on this once I get my camera back – borrowed to my daughter for prom and she left it at a friends she said / I hope. So hopefully my camera returns soon. Hope this helps. Best of luck!
I thought hops was just for beer. I had no idea they could be used for herbal remedies, tea, sleep pillows or landscape. I knew they grew fast and needed substantial nutrients and water to survive. I have a friend that grows quite a bit in Arkansas, however, in Albuquerque, New Mexico, it is difficult to keep them watered enough. Do you have any tips?
New Mexico is on the edge of where you can grow hops. Generally above the 35th parallel is the lowest latitude for growing hops in the northern hemisphere. New Mexico is an arid region and if you were to attempt it, amend the soil so it will hold water (yet drain so the hop rhizomes / root stock / crown do not drown). Also mulch the ground so it will help retain some moisture. Altitude can provide a cooler environment and if the hop bines were shaded during the hottest time of day may help. My hops survive fine in 100 degree temps, but those temps seldom last more than a couple of days a time here in Minnesota. The best bet is to check locally with any hop growers / homebrewers and see if it is possible in your area. If there are successful hop growers in your area, see which varieties are working in your area / climate and follow their tips.
I have no experience growing hops in your area so like I said, reach out locally for advice. Hope this helps.
So, if I found hops growing wild along the road, can I grow from cuttings? Not sure I can get to the roots as they are growing up supported by apple trees on the other side of a fence.
Miss Bertie,
It is possible to grow from cuttings. Some folks bury hop bines or a section of hop bines a couple inches under the soil and get hop shoots to grow. It is not the most efficient method, but I have read reports this does work. You have nothing to lose by trying it. You just may never know the variety of hop plant you are growing. If you are using it as a cover plant – arbor, pergola, privacy wall or just climbing vegetation – it won’t matter much. Give it a shot and let us know if it works for you.
Hello. I live in the norhteast. My second year of hops came up and produced wonderfully this year. However, now that I have such a growth and wonderful vine system I am wondering what to do to prepare for the winter. Do I cut it all back or leave the current vines for the next season.
Thank you for any help.
Keith,
Congrats on your harvest. Once the bines die off, cut them off just above ground level – the bines do not come back. They would only be in the way of the new hop bines that will emerge in the spring. After cutting them off, I mulch over them with about 6 inches or more of leaves to protect the hop crowns from sub zero temperatures.
I have a three acre fenced in pasture where I keep chickens and goats. The fence around it is about 60 inches tall made of wide boards running parallel to the ground. Is it possible to grow hops laterally along these boards? The idea of building and maintaining a 20 ft trellis is daunting. I would run strings along the top board for the hops to cling to but I am worried that they wouldn’t be climbing high off the ground. I would also have to do some thing to protect the vines from the goats but that is possible.
This pasture is in central Indiana and it gets plenty of sun.
I know several folks that grow along fences. I am not certain how much training of the bines is required to keep them on the horizontal ropes. All you have to lose is your investment in rhizomes (not much $ ) and a little time. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out for you.
I live in rural Michigan about 30 miles from Lake Michigan, I have 5 acres of open farmland that is always sunny and am interested in growing hops and am concerned about deer. I have 120 acres and this 5 acres are the only open land so i have a tremendous deer population. Do deer like this or not? Would I be wise to grow it? Also, what kind or soil conditions do I need? and I want to grow it commercially, should I contact local micro brewers to see what kind of hopps they require? thanks in advance for your help.
cordwoodjan
I can’t say for certain if deer will be a problem or not. I will have up to 5 deer in my back yard at a time and they have yet to eat any of my hops. My hops are on the side of my garage and not where I have seen the deer but I imagine they do walk past them. I did have a Fuggle in the backyard last year and the deer left it alone. Doing it commercially, I would definately find out for sure if they are a problem and if, what can be done about it.
Soil must be fertile and well draining (standing water will drown the root stock). PH of 5.5 to 8, but a ph of 6.5 seems to be best for most varieties of hops. So well draining soil and planted in a mound helps. I have no commercial hops experience. Gorst Valley Hops is a good site for commercial intent – they have classes… There are some books listed on the Amazon widget on the sidebar that cover commercial hop growing.
Hope this helps.
Do deer eat hops? I have a serious deer problem ..they destroy most my outdoor plants
I have been told that they do, but my experience is after they get past the sprout stage, animals do not seem to touch them. I have deer in my yard every night and they have never bothered my hops – maybe because they like my tomatoes better? I lose a few hop shoots when they are first coming out, but I am guessing that is rabbits (could be deer) but they always leave the majority of the young hop bines alone. That is my experience. Hops are cheap to grow on a small scale – you have little to lose by trying to grow them.
I purchased some hop rhizomes from Northern Brewer five years ago. The plants thrive but so far I have not seen a single flower or bud. I’m in Fort Smith, AR at just about the thirty fifth parallel. It does get hot here and it is always humid. I water the darned things every day or every other day. The bines reach the roof and overtop it. The BEST luck I’ve had, so far, is that they attracted butterflies (question marks) and I brought the larvae inside and kept ‘em in jars and raised them to adult by feeding them all the hop leaves they wanted. But so far that is all I have been able to harvest from my bines. Since they came from Northern Brewer (or a company THROUGH NB) I am pretty sure they would not have sold me MALE plants.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
NT
Hey Nick,
You are on the edge of the hops growing region. The only thing I could suggest you try is making sure they are getting the nutrients they need. Try an organic fertilizer and a kelp based fertilizer also. That should cover macro and micro nutrients. What varieties do you have? Some will do better in your environment than others. Check with any local homebrew clubs and brew supply stores to see if anyone in your area is having any success. Good luck. I would like to hear if you have any success by doing this (so would a lot of folks attempting or thinking about growing hops in your area). Keep us posted.
PS – butterflies are cool so that’s a plus!