Growing Hops

    Growing Hops Image

    Growing Hops on the Bine

    Growing hops is possible in almost every one of the United States of America.  Hops obviously exist in Europe, Asia and other locations but I will stick with what I am familiar with, the USA.  To grow hops you generally must be between the 35th and 55th parallel (see diagram below) elevation may make it possible to grow hops at slightly lower lattitudes.  Some varieties of hops do better than others in the extremes of this range (some like it hot, some not).  Currently, the northwest USA produces the largest crop of hops plants (Oregon, Washington Northern California…).

    Latitude map of the USA

    USA Latitude Map

    Hops (Humulus Lupulus) are a fast growing vine (referred to as bine) that requires large amounts of sunshine and nutrients from the soil to sustain their rapid growth.  Hop bines can grow up to 30 ft in length.  A perennial, which dies back every winter to the root stock also known as the crown.  Hop plants can be grown from hop rhizomes (underground stems) or seed (but usually hops rhizomes – only want female hop rhizomes).  Hop plantings are generally grown vertically but can be grown horizontally.  Most Hops plants require a 4 month growing season.

    Only the female hop plants flower (the flower is the hop).  Males are used for pollination to seed the females but generally un-pollinated or seedless hops are preferred for brewing.  Beer hops are used for brewing beers and ales to counteract the sweetness of the barley, to provide aroma and also works as a preservative.  Hops have medicinal qualities and calming effects but that is out of scope for this blog.

    Planting hops requires a nutrient dense, well drained soil with a PH between 6 and 8.  Most hop growers  go vertical with their plants so that must taken into consideration for planting.  Since most people (at least in the cities) have a 1/4 acre or less, use a side of their house,  garage, deck or tall poles and twine or rope.  Running twine from the ground to a roof line or overhang is very popular.  A common configuration is twine from a ground anchor to an eyelet attached high on a pole, house, garage or other building and zigzagged up and down (using a latch hook on the high end for easy removal).  If using a single pole, it would be a tee pee configuration.  There are many ways to rig the vines but rope seems to work the best compared to trellises when it comes to harvest time.

    Soil should be prepared at least a couple weeks (the previous season is better) before planting to allow the soil amendments to blend together.  Soil should be dug down  a foot or more to ensure the root stock can grow unimpeded.  The soil should be mixed with organic materials (I am an organic kind of guy).  Decomposed manure, compost, leaves and/or grass clippings and wood ashes are all good soil amendments for hop gardens.  Drainage is very important for hop plants so be aware of slopes and valleys in the ground.  If planting against a house or garage without gutters (on the down slope side) beware the roof runoff.  A raised mound and drainage paths help in these cases and is a good idea for all hop planting.

    Most hops are propagated from rhizomes, so that is what I will cover (besides I have never started from seed).  If you have a short growing season, you can start hop rhizomes indoors.  Once the threat of frost has passed, it is time to plant.  Plant 1 to 3 hop rhizomes in a grouping or mound (1 is usually sufficient), 1 to 4  inches below the soil’s surface (I go 3 to 4 inches deep).  Plant buds up and mounds about 3 feet apart, more (minimum 5 feet) if the next grouping is a different variety of hops.

    When the shoots break ground and are about 1 foot long, select 1 to 3 of the hardiest hop bines (similar to, but different from vines) and train them to climb the rope in the same direction – most advise clockwise (not sure why).  Like everything, there are different ways to go about this, either 1 pole or rope per mound or 1 on each side of the mound (2 ropes/twine)  per mound – prune all other bines to focus all the growing energy to the selected bines.  Difference between bines and vines: vines send out grasping shoots.  Bines use stiff hairlike follicles and wrapping around things to support themselves.

    Depending on when you started or when the existing crowns started bines, the hops should be ready for harvest around mid August to mid September.  When mature, the hops will be squeezable rather than solid and have a paper like texture.  When you determine it is harvesting time, bring down the ropes or poles and pluck the hops from the vines.  The hops must be dried, either in a dehydrator, an oven no more than 140 degrees (with the door open) or at room temp spread out on a single layer on a raised screen to allow airflow.  Keep away from direct sunlight as that will affect the properties and freshness of the hop cones.   Room temp drying is best for retaining flavor and aroma.

    Once dried, the hops should be vacuum sealed and frozen for best results or fresh hops may be used immediately (after drying the hops).  If not vacuum sealed, at least remove as much air as you can from a sealable freezer bag and then freeze.  Shield the hops from light as that will prolong freshness also.

    This is a bit abbreviated but gives you enough information to grow your own hops!  Read some books on how to grow your own hops and/or do some more Internet research to gain additional tips, tricks, methods and theories to maximize your hop growing abilities.  Just say no to hop drought and start growing hops.

    See: Growing Hops From Rhizomes

    Categories : Growing Hops


    1. Cascade are pretty easy to grow in most places – probably one of the most durable hops. I am surprised you had such good luck with noble hops. There are many variables to growing hops, just try growing a variety you want as a rhizome or 2 won’t set you back much.

    2. Rob says:

      Hi there,
      Great info, i live in australia, have planted chinook rhizomes for the first time, they are growing well approx 4mitres (12 feet) in less than 3 months, now the bines are taller than the house roof should i cut the main bine at that point or simply wind it around a horizontal support? As i don’t want the bine to grow any taller. Would appreciate your thoughts.

    3. Rob,

      Thanks. You don’t mention what your hop bines are climbing. Generally when they top out their trellis, rope or whatever they are climbing, they stop going vertical. They may travel back down a bit. When my hops top their ropes, they will climb over the roof for a few days and then figure out there is no structure up there and travel back down the bine and stop the vertical growth. At that point they will bush out a bit with laterals (more hop cone appendages). You can direct them laterally if you wish or just let them use their instincts and do what they can with what they have. Hope this helps.

    4. Robert says:

      I’m interested in growing hop and would like to know where I may purchase some female hop seeds and how much should I expect to pay for it?
      Thank you?

      Richmond, Virginia

    5. Robert Pena says:

      Hello, I desire to grow Hop in the Richmond, Virginia area and I’m looking for a source to purchase Female seeds.
      Please let me know where I may purchase some seeds.
      Thank you so much!


    6. Grow Hops says:

      First, you never want to buy hop seeds – you cannot determine the sex of the plant as a seed. You want to buy hop rhizomes – always clones (root cuttings) of female hop plants. You can buy hop rhizomes from home brew equipment stores or I have compiled a list of online vendors:

      You can expect to pay $3 – $5 each. Hope this helps.

    7. billi brush says:

      i have at least 1 to 2 arces to plant hops when and what kind of poles and how high do you have pics thanks

    8. Grow Hops says:

      I am just a small time hobby hop grower. When you are talking acreage, that’s a whole different animal. Commercially, hops are grown 18 – 20 feet high. As far as their rigging, you would need to consult a hop farmer and/or book on commercial growing of hops. is a good resource for those type questions… Hope that helps.

    9. Bonne biere says:

      I am interested to start homebrewing with homegrown hops. I am living in Russellville AR which appears to be located in the lowest latitude range. I was wondering if you could recommend varieties for this location.

    10. Grow Hops says:

      Sorry I don’t have an answer for you. Best bet is to ask local hop growers commercial (if any) or ask local folks in hop growing or homebrew forums or check in at a local homebrew supply store and they may know or be able to direct you to someone or group with that knowledge. Some university agricultural departments have this knowledge also. Hope this helps.

    11. Qiujian Zhao says:

      I want to know the growth habit of magnum and SAZZ hops in your country,
      please give me a website or any other paper

    12. Grow Hops says:

      I only have experience growing Magnum, not Sazz. Magnum, like most hops (except perhaps the noble hops) grow very well where I am – Minnesota, approximately the 45th latitude North. You can read my posts on my Magnum experience or Google for answers on Sazz. I do not grow hops commercially, strictly as a hobby.

    13. alan englert says:

      What kind of twine do you suggest? I want it to last a long time for the plants to have a long life on the same twine.


    14. Alan, sorry for the delay. Just about any twine will do for a single season. I use nylon rope and leave it up all year long (use a pulley system). This will be year 6 and it shows no wear yet.

    15. carol meekhof says:

      how many plants does it take to have enough hops to make a batch of beer?

    16. Carol,
      It depends upon the style of beer or ale and batch size. Hoppier beers obviously take more hops. My experience is if a recipe calls for 2 oz of pelletized hops, it will take 3 to 4 oz of whole hops to get the same effect. Not sure why – if it is the pelletized hops are more potent or more “available” hop resins, oils, alpha and beta acids, lupulin… and other hop factors. I generally get 8 ozs of dry hops per plant(about 2 lbs wet hop cones) – I know people that get much more, depends on your setup. Hope that helps.

    17. William Mis says:

      This year I planted 13 Centenial, 13 Cascade, 5 Fuggle and 5 Golding. I know it will vary, but on the average, what kind of yield can I expect next year and going forward? I have room for more plants but do not wish to “over plant”. I know I can freeze them but one can only brew so much beer!

    18. William,
      It all depends on how well they do, how tall you grow them, how many bines you grow from each plant… If they do well, I would plan on 8 oz dry hops per rope (3 to 5 bines per rope) and you can have more than one rope per plant. Each successive year there will be more and more sprouts per plant. Hope this helps.

    19. David says:

      Any suggestions for varieties likely to do well in KY?


    20. David,
      I am not sure which varieties do best in Kentucky (I live in Minnesota). I have yet to find that kind of information (varieties that do best in different area/latitudes) in writing/on the web. Best to check with growers in your area. Try homebrew shops, local groups/forums on hops/home brewing. You can try local university agricultural departments also. Cascade hops seem to do well most areas is what I have heard. Hope this helps.

    21. Robert Anderson says:

      Planing on growing some this season. I think I will stick to just 1 or two plant’s, a Magnum and a Cascade. will be growing in a container.

    22. Robert,
      Sorry for the late response. We just pulled out of winter here – just 10 days ago it was 10 below zero here! Magnum and Cascade are good choices – 1 aromatic and one bittering hop. Go big with your containers, 5 gallon or better. Best of luck.

    23. Eric L says:

      Robert – Thanks for this great resource. Is there any need to trim or pinch the initial bine tips/runners, or ok to let it go as it grows without intervention?

    24. Eric,
      If I understand you correctly:
      Some say to pinch off the first sprouts. I do not and have no info whether there is any benefit or not by doing that. Generally, first year hops, let them all grow and collect energy for the root stock (crown). Second year on, select the healthiest/largest bines and let 3 to 5 bines per rope and pinch off all other sprouts so all the energy goes to the “chosen ones” (assuming you are using rope/twine).

    25. Robert says:

      Hello Tony;
      I have some kind of pest that is destroying the flower so instead of “petals” of the hops all that is there are ‘sticks”. The first year week very well but the last two years I have not harvested because of the hops flowers being , my guess, eaten. Any thoughts?

    26. Robert, Sorry for the delay, I have been on vacation a couple weeks and just catching up. I have not heard of hop cones being eaten (all of them?). Any sign of insects? They are female plants right? Where are you located? if you have pictures, send to and maybe I can help figure it out.

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