Archive for Beer Hops
Homebrew – Why We Grow Hops
Posted by: | CommentsHomebrew- that’s what we do with our hops. Hops can be used for other purposes as well, such as
herbal treatments, hop pillows, hop tea, hop bine wreaths, privacy fences, cover for arbors, pergolas, gazebos… Hops as an herbal ingredient has relaxing qualities that can be combined with other relaxing herbs to create stress reducing teas and supplements and sleep aids. In this high stress world, who couldn’t use a little help relaxing, de-stressing and sleeping?
Stress Reducing Herbs
- Hops
- Camomile
- Kava Kava
- St. Johns Wort
- Lavender
- Valerian
- Skullcap
- Schisandra
- Motherwort
- Catnip
- Lemonbalm
- Passionflower
- Ashwaganda
- Red Clover
- California Poppy
- Many More herbs
Homebrewing
Back to homebrewing and the major focus of this blog, growing hops. Hops counteract the sweetness of malts (sugars) used in the making of beers and ales. That is the bitterness factor of hops. They also add aroma, clarity, head retention, anti microbial and natural preservative properties. As you can see, hops are very important to beer/ale making. Hops are one of the 4 must have ingredients of beer – hops, malt, water and yeast. German beer law – Reinheitsgebot, also known as the beer purity law or purity order, demands only water malt and hops – yeast was acquired naturally from the air or added as a sample of wort from a previous batch of beer or ale.
Variations of the amounts and types of malts, hops and yeast (and sometimes, other adjuncts), create the almost limitless styles, flavors and aromas of ales and beers. The possibilities are almost endless when it comes to making your own beers and ales. Unless you have your hops analyzed for bitterness (alpha and beta acids), you never know for sure how they will turn out. Variations in weather and nutrients can alter these properties year to year. To me, that is a good thing, something new and different each year. Like fine wine, some years will be better than others.
We grow hops to further our experience into home brewing. Saving money on growing our own hops, avoiding shortages, sharing hops with homebrewing friends are some of the benefits. As an avid gardener, I simply enjoy growing them and watching their daily growth – up to a foot a day! Hops are easy to grow. All they require is direct sunlight, water and fertile soil and something to climb (rope or twine is best). Hops are inexpensive to grow on a small scale and once established, come up every year for up to 50 years of producing hop cones!
If you make your own beer or ales or are considering it, grow some hops. Depending upon the styles of ales or beers you want to make, determines what type of hops you should grow. Basically, you want at least one bittering hop and one aroma type hop – more hop varieties are better. A basic instruction on growing hops can be found here ==> growing hops . That is why we grow beer hops – to homebrew.
Overwintering Hop Plants
Posted by: | CommentsProtecting Hops From Winter
Here in Bloomington Minnesota, the winter temps can reach 30 to 40 degrees below zero fahrenheit. Hops are hardy plants, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. When the ground has an insulating layer of snow, there is no issue. Where I have my hops alongside my garage, the wind can roar through and blow away that insulating snow leaving the ground unprotected from a hard freeze. I lost a Fuggle container hop this way – the wind blew away the mound of snow I had surrounding the large container. Left exposed, the Fuggle root stock hard froze and died.
I leave the hop bines up after harvest so the leaves can gather additional energy for next year’s growth. I use a pulley system to lower the bines for harvest, then raise them again. The energy is stored in the root stock also known as the crown. After a couple of hard frosts and the leaves die off. then I cut the bines off just above ground level and bury the hop mounds with compost then cover with grass cuttings and leaves from fall mowing / leaf bagging. This extra insulation has helped to keep them alive through a couple of winters so far. They come back stronger and with more hop sprouts each year.
The leaves and grass also break down with the compost and supply some organic fertilizer for the hops. After my run in with a boron deficiency this year that almost killed my Magnum hops, I have and am going to supplement the soil with kelp and other organic mineral and trace mineral supplements to prevent any deficiency conditions. I also noticed that when I sprayed the hops bines with an iron and boron spray, the leaves became huge – up to 10 inches across! Apparently they have been deficient since day one even though I have had decent harvests.
If you live in a cold winter area, it wouldn’t hurt to do this your hops as extra insurance. Who knows, it may help keep a critter from digging up your hops root stock. The added nutrients will help too. That’s about it for this year’s growing hops updates. Unless of course my award winning hops win another home brewing competition – you’ll hear about it then!
Hop Bines Top Out
Posted by: | CommentsMay 29th the Magnum hops reached the top of their rope (15 feet tall). The cascade and Nugget hop bines reached the top of their ropes May 21st (13 feet tall). I predicted by June 1st this would happen and apparently nailed that guess.
This is the second year for these hops. The first year is fun to watch how fast the hop bines grow, but that’s nothing compared to the second year. The first year a lot of the hop plants energy goes into establishing the root stock also known as the crown. By the second year, the crown is established and the sprouts come up earlier than if you planted hop rhizomes.
My hop sprouts survived a few frosts where tomatoes would have surely died. Hops are hardy once established. I lost a Mt. Hood hop plant I had planted in a container this spring. We had some 50 mph winds and it snapped them right off – the rhizome apparently couldn’t handle it – no more hop shoots / sprouts replaced them. They probably would have survived if I had them trained on a rope. They were about a foot long and I had not yet decided where to trellis them.
Beer Hops – What Variety Hop Rhizomes to Plant?
Posted by: | CommentsWhat varieties of beer hops are there?
Before you can decide what variety of hops to plant, you need to know the characteristics of different varieties of hops. The variety you choose depends mainly on the styles of beers and ales you like to drink.
Two main characteristics of hop cones:
- Bittering – measured in IBUs (International Bitterness Units – according to the IBU scale). The bittering attribute of hops is used to counteract the sweetness of the malt in the beer or ale. Alpha acids and beta acids of the hop contribute to the bittering effect.
- Aroma – there is no scale to measure aroma, it is used to impart a pleasurable aroma or “nose” to beers and ales, also referred to as a finishing hop. Essential oils of the hop cone are the source of aroma.
There are other characteristics that hops contribute to brews:
- Natural preservative
- Flavoring – various attributes such as – spicy, piney, citrus, woody, floral…
- Calming effect
All hops have both qualities of bitterness and aroma, it is the proportion of each that determines if it is called a bittering hop, an aroma hop or some hops are in the middle and considered both bittering and aroma hop. The main component of the hop cone is lupulin, a yellow powdery component of the female hop cone. It contains the resins of the hop cone.
Here is a comprehensive list of the varieties of hops
From http://www.beersmith.com/hops_table.htm
| Name | Origin | Alpha (%) | Type |
| Admiral | UK | 14.80% | Bittering |
| Ahtanum | US | 6.00% | Aroma |
| Amarillo Gold | US | 8.50% | Aroma |
| Aquila | US | 6.50% | Aroma |
| Banner | US | 10.00% | Bittering |
| Bramling Cross | UK | 6.00% | Aroma |
| Brewers Gold | UK | 8.00% | Bittering |
| Bullion | UK | 8.00% | Bittering |
| Cascade | US | 5.50% | Both |
| Centennial | US | 10.00% | Bittering |
| Challenger | UK | 7.50% | Aroma |
| Chinook | US | 13.00% | Bittering |
| Cluster | US | 7.00% | Bittering |
| Columbia | UK | 5.50% | Bittering |
| Columbus (Tomahawk) | US | 14.00% | Bittering |
| Comet | US | 9.50% | Bittering |
| Crystal | US | 3.50% | Aroma |
| Eroica | US | 13.00% | Bittering |
| First Gold | UK | 7.50% | Both |
| Fuggles | UK | 4.50% | Aroma |
| Galena | US | 13.00% | Bittering |
| Glacier | US | 5.60% | Aroma |
| Goldings, B. C. | Canada | 5.00% | Aroma |
| Goldings, East Kent (EK) | UK | 5.00% | Aroma |
| Green Bullet | New Zealand | 13.50% | Bittering |
| Hallertauer | Germany | 4.80% | Aroma |
| Hallertauer, Hersbrucker | Germany | 4.00% | Aroma |
| Hallertauer, Mittelfrueh | Germany | 4.00% | Aroma |
| Hallertauer, New Zealand | New Zealand | 8.50% | Both |
| Herald | UK | 12.00% | Bittering |
| Horizon | US | 12.00% | Bittering |
| Liberty | US | 4.30% | Aroma |
| Lublin | Poland | 5.00% | Bittering |
| Magnum | Germany | 14.00% | Bittering |
| Mt. Hood | US | 6.00% | Aroma |
| Northdown | UK | 8.50% | Both |
| Northern Brewer | Germany | 8.50% | Both |
| Nugget | US | 13.00% | Bittering |
| Orion | Germany | 7.30% | Both |
| Pacific Gem | New Zealand | 15.00% | Bittering |
| Pearle | Germany | 8.00% | Bittering |
| Phoenix | UK | 8.00% | Bittering |
| Pilgrim | UK | 11.50% | Bittering |
| Pioneer | UK | 9.00% | Both |
| Pride of Ringwood | Australia | 9.00% | Bittering |
| Progress | UK | 6.30% | Aroma |
| Saaz | Czech Rep | 4.00% | Aroma |
| Santiam | US | 6.00% | Aroma |
| Select Spalt | Germany | 4.80% | Aroma |
| Southern Cross | New Zealand | 13.00% | Both |
| Spalter | Germany | 4.50% | Aroma |
| Sterling | US | 7.50% | Both |
| Sticklebract | New Zealand | 13.50% | Both |
| Strisselspalt | France | 4.00% | Aroma |
| Styrian Goldings | Slovenia | 5.40% | Aroma |
| Sun | US | 14.00% | Bittering |
| Super Alpha | New Zealand | 13.00% | Bittering |
| Target | UK | 11.00% | Bittering |
| Tettnang | Germany | 4.50% | Aroma |
| Tradition | Germany | 6.00% | Bittering |
| Ultra | US | 3.00% | Aroma |
| Vanguard | US | 5.50% | Aroma |
| Warrior | US | 15% | Both |
| Whitbread Golding Var (WGV) | UK | 6.00% | Aroma |
| Willamette | US | 5.50% | Aroma |
| Zeus | US | 14.00% | Bittering |
So depending upon the beer styles you like to drink and or brew, determines which hop varieties to grow (assuming they will grow in your climate and soil). The above list provides the name of the hop, country of origin and alpha acid percentage (bitterness). There are many hop description pages out there, this one is the most comprehensive list of hop varieties I have found. You will only be able to buy a few varieties of hop rhizomes depending upon your country and some on this list are proprietary (not commercially available).
Beers and Ales – the difference between beers and ales is the type of yeast used and temperature of the wort (mash/sugars) during the fermentation process.
- Beers/Lagers/Pilsners – bottom fermenting yeasts – lower temp fermentation – 40 -50 degrees fahrenheit
- Ales – top fermenting yeasts – higher temp fermentation – 60 to 75degrees fahrenheit.
The above are generalities that cover the majority of styles, there are exceptions to every rule.
Beer/Ale style and hops used – http://brewery.org/library/Hopprofs0497.html
This post would go on forever if I listed every beer style and hops used so I won’t attempt that. Checkout the above referenced link to get your hop rhizome list together (you can sometimes find hop plants for sale). Depending upon where you live, you may be able to plant right now (ground is still frozen here in Minnesota) but warmer regions can plant now.
One more resource I stumbled across http://www.hopunion.com/hopunion-variety-databook.pdf
One of my most popular posts will list a variety of online sources to:
buy hop rhizomes <== Click Here
Get your hop garden started!
Beer Hops Harvest
Posted by: | CommentsFinally, Hop harvest time! My Cascade hops and Magnum hops were ready to harvest at the same time. My Nugget hops are still on the bine. Here is 1.8 pounds of wet harvested Cascade hops drying on a screen in my living room under a ceiling fan (air conditioned – low humidity). My wife was so happy to have the hops in our living room – ok, I made that part up, but I have priorities (won that battle!). They are out of the living room now, donated to friend who has far surpassed my homebrewing abilities (I get some excellent ales in return!)
The Magnum hops I dried in a couple of paper bags (single layer under the ceiling fan also). The Magnum hops were exactly 1 pound wet. When I say wet, they have actually dried quite a bit on the bine.
Not sure if you can see the yellow lupulin in this picture but it is plentiful. For a bittering hop, they are more aromatic than the Cascade – at least freshly picked off the bine. I am sure the aromatic quality of the Cascade will come out in a late boil and dry hopping. Here is a cross section of a Magnum hop cone (left) and a Cascade hop cone (right). The yellow lupulin does not show in this web compressed picture as well as I wished. I may set up a separate picture site to do it justice. The yellow lupulin follows the strig (stem) down the center of the hop cone.
The harvesting went well. I had to use a ladder to cut the lateral shoots that wrapped around the rope used to let down the bines (pulley setup) but my ladder time was minimal. I let the bines down on to a tarp and picked the hop cones off the bines while standing up – much easier on my back. When I was done harvesting, I raised the bines up again and will let them go till they freeze, allowing them to store energy for the root stock for next years growth (these are first year hops).
The tarp worked great, I did not lose a single hop cone. I will definitely use a similar hop trellis system next year with a few improvements. Next years hop harvest will be much greater with established hop plants. I anticipate double the beer hop cone harvest with an earlier start and more robust hop root stocks rather than just planted hop rhizomes. The re-hoisted bines are loading up the hop crowns with energy for next years beer hops.
Pretty simple huh? Why aren’t you growing your own hops? Try it you’ll like it.
Start planning now for next years hops. Select your spot, sunny southern exposure is best but an eastern or western unobstructed (no trees blocking sunshine) will work. Make sure you have vertical space, more the better. Start thinking about how you will rig the bines – trellis, ropes secured to a pole or tall structure… You have until spring to figure it out. If nothing else Google it – a great source of ideas.
Prepare the soil now. Dig down at least a foot and at least 2 foot diameter. Make the soil well drained and mix organic materials with the soil – leaves, grass, compost, composted manure, green sand… HOP ON!



















